BizJournals Portfolio
Sep 05 2008 6:22pm EDT

Bleak Chic

In the 1920s, women kicked up their heels in flapper dresses, retreating into a fantasy of luxury (think fur and silver screen goddess gowns) after the stock market crash. Today those styles evoke both pre-Depression giddiness and the brutal aftermath.

Now, at a time when many economists see a less crushing but still deeply painful slump continuing to unfold in New York, one local designer wants to take women's fashion straight back to the late 1920s and 30s. On Monday afternoon, Armani veteran Wilfredo Rosado showed off his new collection for Manuel, inspired by the Chrysler Building and the Jazz Age.

Flapper dresses and long column gowns grabbed the spotlight in the presentation held in the Byrant Park Hotel across from the tents. A salesman emphasized the luxurious aspects of simpler pieces, holding up a gray dress in gossamer silk jersey with a French return back and inviting attendees to admire it's soft "hand," the industry term for how a fabric feels to the touch.

Harking back to hard times might seem surprising for Manuel, a 50-year-old men's wear brand known for western clothing and outfitting the Rat Pack. But Rosado's new direction struck some editors as economically in tune. Said one editor, "With the presidential election and the mood out there [we're], connected with that time."

More on Fashion Week from Portfolio.com:

Cutting Corners

The Runway Race for Retail
Making Model Moms
How to Freak People Out at Fashion Week


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