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Paris Fashion Week Ungaro

Fashion Inc.

by Lauren Goldstein Crowe
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Feb 27 2008 12:00am EDT

Paris Fashion Week: Ungaro

The last of the relaunches are underway in Paris. At Ungaro, the 23-year-old Esteban Cortazar made a solid showing. He wisely stayed away from the loud prints that other replacements focused on -- showing only one, a mellow bamboo print on a pale green dress that would offend no one. He focused instead on draping and twisting and trying to capture the sensuality of the brand. It was the strongest showing of a new Ungaro designer so far, if not a perfect collection. The looks were strangely reminiscent of Stella McCartney's collection a few years back. A point made even more strange when one considers that it was the same C.E.O., Mounir Moufarrige, who hired Stella at Chloe and Esteban at Ungaro. Perhaps he's designing the collections himself?

The brand has a long way to go to win back the fashion cognoscenti who are tired of the its tribulations, but at least for a night, Esteban can rest easy with his debut collection behind him.

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