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Milan Fashion Week: Top Collections ...   Fashion Breakfast: Oscars, the Mob, ...
Feb 20 2008 1:45PM EST

Milan Fashion Week: Jil Sander, Marni and Gucci

The Marni show was spectacular. Season after season the brand manages to provide a look that is both bohemian and tailored, hip but not slavish to trends and most of all fun. This season the key was summer-like colors in heavy fabrics.

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It was a show that Roberto Cavalli should study. He chose instead to show summer dresses in summer fabrics. One departing editor said "that one was for the Russians." But I hear from the Russians that Cavalli is not selling well there either.

I still can't sit in a Gucci show without thinking of Tom Ford. Maybe it's because I left the circuit the same time he left the brand and have only just rejoined. But as I watched the collection I thought it couldn't be more different that Tom's but yet it still feels Gucci. How? I think it's the make-up and the hair that tie the designers together.

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I saw Gucci C.E.O. Mark Lee when I was coming in. He said he liked the Q&A and that I had "caught him off guard." I was caught off guard by the new carpet in the Gucci venue. It was a rather dizzying array of red, black and white and made navigating the stairs particularly risky. I was relieved to see the same design on a coat. At least now I know it will be gone next season.

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There was very little that didn't move on Frieda Giannini's designs. Fringed boots, trousers with gold rings, evening dresses with scarves. Just like the brand, they seemed determined to keep moving forward.

I would have liked to tell you about the Jil Sander collection, but PR Consulting didn't invite me. Maybe next season.

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