Milan Fashion Week: Missoni, Bally Best of Show

In keeping with my new tradition of only reviewing shows I get invited to, I'd have to say that my hands-down favorite show of Milan was Missoni. It was a stunning and colorful collection, even more fabulous because there was something for just about every woman. Kaftans for the large, mini-skirts for the young. Particularly strong were the evening dresses. A particularly strong start for the new C.E.O. Massimo Gasparin whose task it is to transition the company from family hobby to a modern luxury goods machine.

BALLY

Brian Atwood got off to a somewhat suspect start at Bally when he showed up at New York's Costume Institute Gala (aka the party of the year) with Lindsay Lohan in a Zac Posen dress instead of a Bally one. But he made up for a lot of sins with his first full collection for the house (which I hear Texas Pacific Group sees as finally being ready to be sold). It's not the direction I would have taken for the brand -- I've said before that the European Coach spot is one just aching to be filled and Bally would seem the brand -- but I have to say that what I saw in the showroom was really appealing.

Shoe Case by Bally

Shoe by Bally

Dress by Bally

But it was top-notch luxury. There was still crocodile, uber-soft suede bags and a chic bohemian air, but all with a more modern and desirable twist than they were able to do before his arrival. I'm curious to see how it will be priced as I worry that they may be alienating customers with the continual upward positioning. Also new -- a new script logo not dissimilar to the Gucci logo. Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole consulted on the hush-hush for Bally. Maybe this was Tom's idea of an in-joke?

Missoni Photo by Karl Prouse/Catwalking/Getty Images