Anna And The Fashion Shows

Well, it seems Anna Wintour may be at it again. Fashionista is reporting that Anna is trying to convince Didier Grumbach, the head of the French fashion federation, to limit the number of Paris fashion shows to 30. If it's true, get ready for the great fashion journalist debate to begin. Newspaper scribes like Suzy Menkes and Cathy Horn will be appalled -- how will the small designers get a chance to grab the spotlight? And, more important perhaps, when will we have time to write? Other fashion editors, particularly those with young children and on monthly magazines, will be thrilled. Who needs a month on the road? Why should we have to sit through another bad Kenzo collection?

How do I know this? Because it happened before. Anna was tinkering with the schedule a few years back, trying to get Milan down to 4 days. She succeeded, somewhat, but Milan is back to a full week -- with "anchor" shows like Armani and Versace on either end to make sure that nobody skips town. I do think the number of shows has gotten a bit out of control. I know it is hard to generate excitement without them, but with some brands you really think that a presentation is a better way to go. Vanessa Friedman at the FT thinks all second lines should be forbidden from showing, and she's got a point.

But what does it mean to the business? I think it depends which business you're in:

For store buyers -- largely irrelevant. By the time the shows come around, they've already bought most of the collections. For those in the magazine business -- good. Fewer days of hotel tabs to pay. (Elle recently decided to cut the team it sends to cover couture to two, "if that.") From a big brand point of view -- good. Their shows aren't going to be the ones that are cut. From a young designer point of view -- NOT SO GOOD. But maybe the young French designers can start showing in London and it can become a week for scouting new talent. Editors/buyers charged with looking for new names could come and Anna could safely stay home. And for the French five-star hotels and fashion-friendly restaurants like L'Avenue? NOT SO GOOD, NOT SO GOOD AT ALL.