Tom Ford, Still Breaking Hearts

Former Gucci Creative Director Tom Ford's new collection, called Tom Ford, debuts to the fashion press next week. And the editors are already up in arms. He's decided to launch to everybody at the same time, meaning that the monthly magazines won't be able to write about the collection until their July issues. Since it's a much quieter concept than Gucci was -- it is men's wear for a start -- his office wasn't expecting a massive turnout. But by all reports, editors are flying in from around the globe. Of course, in addition to the clothes, he'll also be divulging the store concept and the business plan for the Tom Ford brand. It will be one of the most closely watched launches in fashion history.

According to a source who has seen the concept it's more '30s elegance that '60s glamour. Think wood and silver fixtures. The mix between ready-to-wear and made-to-order will focus more than usual on the made-to-order. Perhaps as much as 50 percent. (The ready to wear is produced by Zegna, who also makes the suits for Gucci).

Despite the subdued nature of the project, Tom Ford is still seeking shops on the most famous shopping streets in the world -- Madison Avenue in New York opens in the first week of May -- and I hear he's looking for a spot on Bond Street in London. Retail consultants wonder why he isn't tempted to try Savile Row (the Anderson and Sheppard space is still avalible) or Mount Street, where Marc Jacobs just opened. But Tom Ford is still Tom Ford. When he left Gucci he was on Bond Street. Wouldn't he feel less of a brand going anywhere else?