Pumpkin beers, which are actually made with pumpkins, are a seasonal favorite—and seasonal they are, available only in the fall. Portfolio.com’s beer columnist, Lew Bryson, on some of the most popular and tastiest selections.

5.6 percent alcohol

The Coors entry, brewed in Toronto, tastes of roasted pumpkin, which is kind of gourdy. Where’s the spice and sweetness?

7 percent alcohol

Dogfish Head, renowned for smack-in-the-face beers, surprises and pleases with a sweet, solid brown ale frosted with pumpkin and spices.

8 percent alcohol

The Great Pumpkin—dark orange, with pumpkin and spice aroma bursting out of the glass—is full-bodied and boldly flavored. A real pie-in-a-glass effect.

4.5 percent alcohol

Pumpkinhead is light orange with a fizzy white head, yielding a hint of vanilla in a sweet, light ale.

5.4 percent alcohol

Sidesteps the “How do you drink three slices of pumpkin pie?” issue by being an ale with a hint of pumpkin rather than a pumpkin ale.

5 percent alcohol

One of the first pumpkin ales, Post Road is subdued and not overly sweet.

6 percent alcohol

This one’s got some real gourd going on, subtly spiced. It finishes clean and bitter, a refreshing change amid all this pie beer.

4.9 percent alcohol

Like a pumpkin-pie cracker: brisk, light, and gone quickly.