Don’t outsource

Stop letting your mother, assistant, or significant other shop for you, and don’t bypass the cosmetics counter by shopping online. Because of differences in body chemistry, a scent that smells fantastic on one person can turn foul on another. Instead, think of fragrance as another field—like wine or cigars—about which to develop an expertise. “There’s no reason why connoisseurship shouldn’t be extended into the area of fragrance,” says Simon Doonan, creative director for Barneys New York.

To try out a cologne, apply some to one of your arms and then live with it for a day. If you find that you’re constantly aware of the smell, then you’ve put on too much or have picked one that’s too strong. And if it makes you—or anyone around you—gag or grimace, avoid it at all costs.

Lead, don’t follow

The hot trend in high-end fragrances is no longer iconic scents and brands but limited-production, niche, and customized blends.

“At least where I work, it’s best not to show up wearing a really recognizable, mass-market cologne,” says Ian, the twentysomething private equity principal from New York. “There are a lot of people who see it as gauche and young—the same as wearing excessive logos on clothing in the office.”

Yet finding something unique may take some effort. Diana Dodson, an analyst at the market-research firm Euromonitor, points out that although the number of niche producers has skyrocketed, designer brands like Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren still dominate the market—and hog counter space. Browse small shops and keep your eyes open on business trips.

Remember your rank

Men below the age of 24 still account for a large chunk of the fragrance market, which helps explain why so many products are too sporty and sweet for professional settings. You want to seem polished, so choose a product that smells clean and uncomplicated. If a scent smells woody or citrusy, that’s good; if it reminds you of flowers, it may be too girly. And if you’re getting a whiff of musk or spices, you’re on the seductive rather than the sophisticated end of the spectrum. For examples, see our slideshow.

Follow best practices

In short: Keep it in your personal space. Despite its name, aftershave should not be sloshed across your face and neck. Instead, rub a couple of drops into your wrists and neck. When applying eau de cologne—which is usually twice as concentrated as aftershave—spray it into the air and let it settle on you to avoid an olfactory overdose.

In the event that a well-intentioned spray leaves you smelling like a nightclub all-star, don’t assume you’ll air out. Wash your hands and neck to remove the excess scent rather than make everyone else pay for your itchy trigger finger.

Not quite sold on the whole idea? Look into other scented products such as shampoo, soap, and deodorant.