Nowhere is the stereotype about men’s fragrances better summed up than in the 2004 film Anchorman, in which narcissistic newsman Brian Fantana douses himself with a foul-smelling cologne called Sex Panther and then boasts, “It’s illegal in nine countries, and it’s made with bits of real panther.”

Sex Panther may be fictional, but from Brut and Aramis in the ’60s to Drakkar Noir and Stetson in the ’80s, men’s fragrances have long shared an unmistakable scent profile: musky, heavy, and spicy—a blend better suited to the bedroom than the boardroom. It’s little wonder that many a businessman cringes when he hears the word cologne, as visions of gelled hair, square-toed shoes, and bad suits run through his head.

But Michael Macko, men’s fashion director for Saks Fifth Avenue, says that he has seen men’s attitudes toward personal appearance shift in the past several years and that the same herd mentality that discouraged fragrance in the workplace is now making it a fundamental part of a professional wardrobe.

“The past decade, it became socially acceptable for men to purchase and own grooming products, and men embraced it,” agrees Tom Ford, a fashion-design icon who recently launched his own line of fragrances. “Today, it’s not only acceptable for men to want to look and smell good; it’s expected.”

According to data from NPD Group, a market-research firm, sales of men’s premium fragrances (premium meaning any product that originates in a department or fine specialty store) now total nearly $6 billion worldwide. And though the market is growing by a modest 2 percent a year, the increase is significant when compared with revenues from women’s scents, which are actually shrinking.

“I grew up outside of the U.S., where shaving and grooming products were widely used by the men around me,” says one man in his late twenties who works as a principal at a private equity firm in New York City. “It’s only in the last few years that I’ve started to see my American friends and colleagues embrace those things in the same way.”

Karen Grant, an analyst at NPD, says the shift started around 2003—right about the time the term metrosexual hit the scene. NPD estimates that the number of new men’s fragrances launched each year in the United States has more than tripled since the ’90s, to about 60. Many of the pungent products of yesteryear are still on the shelves, but now a wider spectrum of scents—some more rugged, some more refined—are in the mix. To the elements that have traditionally been considered manly—musk, leather, moss, and exotic spices—cologne makers have added citrus, grasses, and even gourmet notes like basil and fig. The new scents are not less masculine, but subtler and lighter. Advances in technology and chemistry have significantly cut down on the number of formulations that are strong enough to make eyes water.

But there’s definitely a downside to a market awash in offerings: Men seeking an appropriate weekday fragrance may find themselves at sea. Here, an executive’s guide to staying out of the stink.

Don’t outsource
Stop letting your mother, assistant, or significant other shop for you, and don’t bypass the cosmetics counter by shopping online. Because of differences in body chemistry, a scent that smells fantastic on one person can turn foul on another. Instead, think of fragrance as another field—like wine or cigars—about which to develop an expertise. “There’s no reason why connoisseurship shouldn’t be extended into the area of fragrance,” says Simon Doonan, creative director for Barneys New York.

To try out a cologne, apply some to one of your arms and then live with it for a day. If you find that you’re constantly aware of the smell, then you’ve put on too much or have picked one that’s too strong. And if it makes you—or anyone around you—gag or grimace, avoid it at all costs.

Lead, don’t follow
The hot trend in high-end fragrances is no longer iconic scents and brands but limited-production, niche, and customized blends.

“At least where I work, it’s best not to show up wearing a really recognizable, mass-market cologne,” says Ian, the twentysomething private equity principal from New York. “There are a lot of people who see it as gauche and young—the same as wearing excessive logos on clothing in the office.”

Yet finding something unique may take some effort. Diana Dodson, an analyst at the market-research firm Euromonitor, points out that although the number of niche producers has skyrocketed, designer brands like Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren still dominate the market—and hog counter space. Browse small shops and keep your eyes open on business trips.

Remember your rank
Men below the age of 24 still account for a large chunk of the fragrance market, which helps explain why so many products are too sporty and sweet for professional settings. You want to seem polished, so choose a product that smells clean and uncomplicated. If a scent smells woody or citrusy, that’s good; if it reminds you of flowers, it may be too girly. And if you’re getting a whiff of musk or spices, you’re on the seductive rather than the sophisticated end of the spectrum. For examples, see our slideshow.

Follow best practices
In short: Keep it in your personal space. Despite its name, aftershave should not be sloshed across your face and neck. Instead, rub a couple of drops into your wrists and neck. When applying eau de cologne—which is usually twice as concentrated as aftershave—spray it into the air and let it settle on you to avoid an olfactory overdose.

In the event that a well-intentioned spray leaves you smelling like a nightclub all-star, don’t assume you’ll air out. Wash your hands and neck to remove the excess scent rather than make everyone else pay for your itchy trigger finger.

Not quite sold on the whole idea? Look into other scented products such as shampoo, soap, and deodorant.