If you work at Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, you should have no problem figuring out what to wear (or at least what not to wear) to the office this season. The company’s recently leaked summer style guide comes complete with a sandals subsection and a definition for city shorts.

As bizarre as that level of specificity may seem, equally strange is the absence at many other firms of dressing guidance altogether, which might give employees the impression that what they wear to the office is not that important. “ ‘Nobody here cares what I wear’—famous last words,” says Ali Galgano of CTPartners, a New York executive-recruiting firm. “That’s never true in a corporate environment.”

Without explicit dress policies, companies leave employees to depend on their own fashion judgment—which can be a tricky proposition, especially in summer, when it’s easy to take a sartorial step in the wrong direction.

To help you weather the warmer months, we consulted Robert Dundon, North America president for Thomas Pink, and Cliff Hunt, head of retail and merchandising for Paul Smith U.S.A.

Of course, the examples your colleagues set and the subtle reactions you receive from superiors should always supersede what’s written in any rule book. As Joe Gibbons, a research director at the FutureWork Institute, a human-resources consulting firm, says, “The wise man dresses to blend in.”

Make a Wardrobe Correction

Think of summer not as a time to dress down but rather to dress differently—which means adjusting your wardrobe accordingly.

A jacket is useful in warm weather, because it is lighter than a suit but still professional. Dundon suggests choosing jackets and pants in lightweight fabrics, such as cotton poplin or a linen-cotton blend. A navy-blue blazer can also be worn through the summer months.

If you must wear a suit, consider shifting from winter or three-season suits to ones specifically made for warm weather. Hunt suggests unlined or half-lined suits made of wool-linen blends, which are less likely to wrinkle (and are easier to pull off) than pure linen.

No One Wants Tickets to Your Gun Show

While polo shirts may be standard attire at some offices, they can project a less-than-smart image if you’re the only one wearing them.

But if you feel safe bringing your alligators to work, Hunt suggests wearing a jacket and choosing muted pastels rather than bright colors. Also, with a more casual shirt, accessories such as your belt, shoes, and watch become more important in establishing a level of formality.

Above all, be sure your shirts fit properly. “In the summer, people are sometimes tempted to buy slimmer and slimmer cuts because they think they give the illusion of being fit,” explains Hunt. But instead of showing off your physique, too-snug shirts look supremely unprofessional.

Perspiration Is a Challenge, Not an Excuse

The period between Memorial Day and Labor Day can feel like a nonstop war against sweat, but dressing down because of it is admitting defeat. No need—a few secret weapons can save the day.

Start by investing in a set of summer dress shirts made of high-thread-count cotton or linen blends. Thanks to new technologies, fabrics can be spun lighter than ever before, Hunt says, which gives you more viable warm-weather options.

Wise color choice can also help with perspiration. “Sticking to white shirts, or at least shirts with white backgrounds, will help minimize the appearance of sweat,” Dundon advises. And choose button cuffs over French cuffs so you can easily roll up your sleeves.

If the morning commute wreaks havoc on your underarms, have your laundered shirts delivered to the office. That way, you can slip into a fresh one when you arrive. Plus, you should always carry a handkerchief to deal with perspiration, and give yourself extra time to get to appointments to avoid a sweat-inducing rush.

Your Office Is Not a Clambake

More-whimsical summer-clothing touches—seersucker, madras, Nantucket reds—are usually best left for the country house. Just because your employer has no formal rules against such attire, that doesn’t mean it’s desirable. “We’re talking about a place of business, not the races or Daddy and Mother’s garden party,” says Amal Devani, a principal at an investment firm based in Greenwich, Connecticut.

Though these looks can occasionally be carried off, Hunt believes that the privilege to be quirky accumulates with seniority. Those lower in the office pecking order should be careful about upstaging their superiors.

Color Matters

It helps to lighten your colors as well as your fabrics in warmer months. For jackets and pants, Hunt and Dundon push for khaki, taupe, olive, or washed black.

If you want to wear a suit, Hunt suggests you try a tropical-wool blend, in sand or taupe. The fabric looks like linen but is more durable and less prone to wrinkling. For a staunchly formal office environment, a light-gray suit is a versatile option.

For ties, socks, and yes, even polo shirts, light blue, pale green, and red have been particularly popular this season. Dundon suggests choosing a narrower and more colorfully printed tie but sticking with the classic white collared shirt beneath.

No Socks? No Dice

Think carefully before going to the office sockless. Rather than bare your ankles, you should instead pair loafers or driving shoes—less sweaty than lace-up oxfords—with lightweight socks. Dundon suggests choosing socks that are close enough in color to your pants to blend in. Wearing your dark winter socks will draw unwanted attention to your feet. Needless to say, sport socks never, ever look good with formal clothes. And 99 times out of 100, sandals are inappropriate in a corporate context.

---