These wines may be "pointless," but that's not because they're lacking—their makers have decided to opt out of the ratings game. They're proof that vino is more than just a number.
Martin Arndorfer Grüner Veltliner Die Leidenschaft 2005 ($50)
Imported by Anthony Nicalo of
Farmstead Wines, this Austrian wine is lively and bright with wonderful mouthwatering acidity typical of the Grüner Veltliner grape. Oak gives a hint of vanilla that rounds off the fruit and subtle spice. "I've been on ratings panels and at the end of the day, wines that are more extracted and manipulated are more likely to stand out in that split-second taste. I believe wine is meant to be enjoyed around the table, with food," Nicalo says of his importing philosophy.
DaVero Estate Sangiovese Rosato Dry Creek Valley 2006 ($16)
Dry and balanced, this small-production rosé from
DaVero's Sonoma estate-grown grapes has the acidity of a white and the depth and structure of a red. DeVero owner Ridgely Evers wants to avoid the walk down the ratings path: "Once you go there, you can't backtrack. This wine is really good, but we don't make it to score a 95. We make it to drink with a meal."
Hedges Family Estate Three Vineyards Red Mountain 2005 ($25)
A Bordeaux-style blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc, the Three Vineyards has nice firm tannins, classy fruit, and a little smoky undertone with hints of spice, ideal with red meat. "Our sacred mantra of terroir means that wine comes from a place. If you can taste Red Mountain, that's the holy grail of wine," says Christophe Hedges, sales manager on
Hedges Family Estates.
Graff Family Vineyards Mourvédre Monterey County 2006 ($22)
This Mourvédre, a rare varietal in California, has subtle red plum and gamey aromas. "As a supplier I'm against grading wines. There are some advantages to the consumer, but we're better off making the best wine we possibly can, selling it at a value price, and getting out there and telling our story," says Phil Woodward, president of
Woodward/Graff Wines, which makes Graff Family Wines out of Monterey County.
Karl Lawrence Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 ($54)
Smooth and silky with a hue of midnight purple, this cabernet is elegant with dark berries, good tannins, and a hint of herbaceousness. Partner Ric Henry says the
Karl Lawrence team decided early on that they preferred loyal customers who bought wine year after year than one-time buyers seeking a high-score wine. Instead of cultivating critics, "we please our customers, so they do our marketing for us," Henry says.
Feb 13 2009
