To manage the latest global expansion, Vongerichten (who took a six-week business class at Hunter College before he opened his first restaurant) and his longtime business partner, Phil Suarez, started a new company, Culinary Concepts. Jean-Georges Management runs the New York eateries.

"I'm not so worried about what the critics say," says Suarez, a former film and music-video producer. "It's a tremendous misconception that if you are not behind the stove the restaurant will suffer."

But the three-way between a hotel chain, private-equity firm, and fine-dining group has involved a steep learning curve. All concepts do not work in all places, it turns out. Spice Market's trademark family-style dining does not sit well with Atlanta patrons, while Istanbul diners like things less spicy, says James Gersten, president of Culinary Concepts. Navigating those differences is going to get even more complicated.

"I do worry about making sure all of these restaurants are great," Gersten says. Because Vongerichten can't be in dozens of kitchens at once, quality control is a priority. A Culinary Concepts staffer visits each location at least once a quarter; secret diners check in more regularly.

At first "we didn't know who was responsible for what," admits Tina Edmundson, Starwood's senior vice president of operations. The three parties went back and forth on menus, plate presentation, and other food details. They finally decided that Vongerichten and local chefs will change menus quarterly, with the other business partners getting the final say. Each hotel's general manager is responsible for making sure service runs smoothly. "The proof is in the pudding," Edmundson says. "When we see about 20 then we will know the fruits of this relationship."

Culinary Concepts bought the original New York Spice Market from J.G. Management to use the concept for the first part of the W expansion. Vongerichten admits that decision was pure numbers: Even though it peddles South Asian street food, high bar tabs and fast service mean the large, swanky restaurant has profit margins of 50 percent. That compares to 10 percent for JoJo, an intimate gourmet spot with slightly higher prices.

Istanbul was one of the first tests of the expansion. Despite being packed with well-heeled locals and curious foreigners, the W's Spice Market, which opened in May, is a work in progress against a backdrop of red velvet and exposed brick. Chef Hakki Alkan spent a month training at Spice Market in New York, and now tosses local dishes like eggplant manti, a ravioli-like dumpling, onto the menu with Spice Market classics like chicken samosas. Vongerichten checks in with regular conference calls.

Jean Georges in New York, by contrast, runs like a well-rehearsed play. Vongerichten's youngest brother Philippe manages the front of the house; his 26-year-old son spends time in the kitchen. On Mondays, two brothers go out to dinner and discuss the day's business. When on the road, he calls Philip twice a day. Vongerichten says he will never do another restaurant like Jean Georges. But, he points out: "No one is looking for me at Spice Market."