On April 22, the plush dining room at the Willard InterContinental Hotel in Washington is noticeably bare. Aside from a table of tourists and a lone harried diner, most of the overstuffed chairs sit empty. It is the day of the Pennsylvania primary, and there are no politicians to feast on artichoke and fennel soup; no reporters.

"During an election year, no one is in Washington," sighs Barbara Bahny David, the hotel's public relations director. "But, boy, oh boy, after the inaugural, just wait."

Though plenty happens in the White House corridors and Congressional halls, the city's dining rooms serve as the real backdrop for dealmaking drama in this small town. That's where politicians hammer out negotiations with lobbyists, spin reporters, and flirt with fundraisers. Jim Hewes, who tends the Willard's Round Robin Bar, can always tell which major player has just sealed a big deal. It gives him a chuckle to read about it in the paper the next day. "I think, That's funny, because he just spent two hours here with me last night."

When the next administration swings into town, eateries will be buzzing with staffers intent on making their mark. In Washington, politicos pick where they eat to be close to the inside action, says Colleen Evans, who has seen her share of inaugurations as publicity director of the Ritz-Carlton hotel. "It speaks volumes if you can walk into the Palm and have [maître d'] Tommy Jacomo slap you on the back and tell you a dirty joke," Evans says.

That holds true no matter which party you belong to. "Quite often in Washington, a good restaurant gets both sides of the aisle," says Mame Reiley, a Virginia superdelegate who heads the Democratic National Convention's Women's Caucus

Mainstays like the Palm, which is a half-dozen blocks from the White House, remain political hotbeds across generations of administrations. "If Tommy got a cut of all the deals that happen at the Palm, he could have retired by now," Reiley jokes. But she points out that the tastes of senior administration staffers can quickly turn restaurants into power spots. The Old Ebbitt Grill, an oyster bar and saloon a block from the White House, was anointed by President Bush's advisers.

So restaurant owners are looking ahead to the new administration. There's speculation that newer spots might see a spike in business if Barack Obama wins the presidency and brings to town lots of fresh young faces drawn to hipper venues. John McCain, as usual, is a wild card. And many restaurant owners fondly look back on the Clinton years, when the commander in chief flitted about town both with and without his wife. Ashok Bajaj, who owns half a dozen restaurants around town, including the Oval Room and Rasika, says the Clintons are adventurous eaters and attracted crowds wherever they dined. (The current president prefers the comfort of his own dining room. )

Whatever the dining trends in 2009, it's not just restaurateurs who will be affected, but political up-and-comers as well. "They have to make sure to be at the right places," says Satinder Palta, general manager of the Renaissance Mayflower Hotel. "That way it sets the right tone for their boss." Here's the rundown:

The Palm
When Bill Clinton first came to town after his inauguration, campaign manager James Carville and fundraiser Terry McAuliffe immediately set up shop at the Palm, a downtown steak house. Carville, now a political consultant, still comes back to his usual table, though he sticks with light fare like pasta, says Jacomo. No matter who gets into office, the steak house will always remain a neutral meeting ground for both parties. "Washington is never going to change," he says. "Both parties need each other, so they can't burn bridges."

Morton's
The elder George Bush was a big fan of Morton's, another steak house near the White House. "It was never just 'hi' or 'bye' with him," says Danny Festa, general manager. "He'd stop, take pictures—it would take him 45 minutes just to get out." Former Secretary of Defense Donald Rumsfeld and his successor Robert Gates come to Morton's regularly for their red-meat fixes, Festa says. CNN news host Larry King has a regular booth, but since his 1987 heart attack he avoids steak.