Small but strong

As a rule of thumb, the smaller the chili, the hotter it is. New Mexican chilies, for instance, are large enough to stuff, and their bite is more mild than mind-boggling. The golf-pencil-size cayennes and slender red bird chilies that grow throughout Asia are legendary for giving curries and sauces their fire. The truly incendiary chilies tend to be the size of a large marble—like the habañero and the Scotch bonnet, both of which add kick to Caribbean and West Indian dishes.

Taming the beast

Not sure you can take the heat? Try chilies that have been blanched, pickled, or fried; all three methods neutralize the capsaicin and let the other flavors of the pepper come through. Chili novices can also try milder varieties, such as the Anaheim or poblano chili. If your mouth is on fire, don’t reach for the water; capsaicin isn’t water soluble. Try milk, ice cream, or sour cream; the fat and protein in them subdue the compound.

The spice of life

While some chilies are eaten as a vegetable (such as cheese-stuffed chili rellenos), it’s far more common for these spicy pods to be used as a flavoring agent. Restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten urges diners to think of chilies the way they think of salt. “In the right proportion, a little chili has the ability to snap the palate to attention, so other flavors actually become heightened.” Chilies have a particular affinity for sharp acids like citrus and vinegar, as well as grilled foods.

Bringing it home

When preparing a fresh chili, cut the heat by removing the seeds and ribs before chopping or dicing. Keep your hands away from your face, since capsaicin bonds to mucus membranes. And if you’re dealing with a super-hot variety like a habañero or Scotch bonnet, you might want to don rubber gloves to avoid skin irritation.

Just desserts

While most people think of chilies only in savory foods, the cacao-spiked moles of Oaxaca prove they go nicely with Mexico’s other famous culinary contribution: chocolate. Red chili adds another dimension of heat and spice to hot chocolate as well as chocolate desserts. A popular street snack in South Asia is tropical fruit sprinkled with salt, sugar, and powdered chili pepper, and some high-end U.S. chefs have embraced that frisson of flavor as well.