Picking the Best

Like all shellfish, fresh oysters need to be alive when you purchase them. Oysters should be tightly shut or, if slightly open, should close when tapped. Avoid ones that gape open (they’re already dead), or give off a sewage smell. And always buy from a place with a good reputation and rapid turnover.

How to Store

Since they are alive, oysters need to be babied a little bit. Wrap them loosely in a towel, paper towel, or paper bag (all damp); put them in the fridge, and plan to use them within a day or so. Don’t store them in water or in plastic, as they can literally suffocate.

Aw, Shucks

Most fish markets will shuck your oysters for you. But to do it yourself, you’ll need an oyster knife and a heavy glove, in case the knife slips. Insert the knife into the oyster’s “hinge” and work the blade around in a circle. When you get back to where you started, twist the knife gently to bring the shells apart, being careful to keep the liquid from spilling out. Remove the top shell, then carefully slide the knife underneath the oyster to detach it.

The Scoop on Sauce

Purists insist that accessorizing with anything other than a squeeze of lemon juice or a splash of mignonette (a sauce of wine, vinegar, shallots and pepper) is unthinkable. But there are dissenters. “I like these American condiments that we grew up with, so I’m a fan of cocktail sauce,” says Rebecca Charles, owner of Pearl Oyster Bar in New York. Jeff Temner, director of culinary operations for the Legal Sea Foods company, sees cocktail sauce as a good bridge ingredient for oyster novices.

To Chew or Not to Chew

To eat a raw oyster, tip the shell into your mouth, being careful to not spill the flavorful “liquor” surrounding the meat. Oyster lovers are divided as to whether it’s better to chew or simply slurp it down, but there’s really no wrong way to do it.

The Raw and the Cooked

With all the obsession over raw mollusks, it’s easy to forget that oysters are very tasty baked, fried, broiled, or stewed. When oysters are cooked, their slippery texture firms up, and the taste becomes milder. Most chefs agree that cooked is the best way for a beginner to ease into experiencing oysters in all their briny glory.

Oyster Season?

Today’s restaurateurs can source oysters from all over the globe, so it’s no longer necessary to consider them a seasonal indulgence. But there’s still a dash of truth in the adage advising consumption only in months with the letter r in them. In the old days, the lack of refrigeration made it risky to eat oysters during the hot months. That’s no longer the case—oysters do spawn in the warmer weather, but they’re watery and less flavorful during this time.

Pourings and Pairings

While champagne is a traditional accompaniment to oysters, it’s more a marriage of convenience, since both are considered decadent party foods. But many dry, acidic white wines work equally well. Try muscadet and chablis, as well as unoaked California chardonnay and New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Avoid reds; the tannins clash with the taste of oysters.