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Tiny Bubbles, Tiny Bottles

Fine wine and champagne makers are thinking small, with savvy, single-serving packaging.

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Wine in cans? In juice cartons with attached straws? Sold in foil-sealed glasses at a ball game?

Such practical packaging might sound like a gimmick to help sell inexpensive, unexceptional wine. But more and more respected winemakers, including Moët & Chandon and Francis Ford Coppola, have been breaking from tradition and putting their products in unconventional containers. The logic is simple: More options will attract more consumers.

By downsizing—offering wine in smaller portions that can be easily served at events or popped open without having to worry that the rest of the bottle will go to waste—winemakers are reaching a new segment of the market. According to consumer-research firm AC Nielsen, sales of single-serving minis—187 milliliters, or 6.3 ounces, a little larger than small juice cans—have been increasing faster than those for the overall wine market, up 10.3 percent for the year ending May 5, compared with 6.2 percent for all table wines. Although minis today make up less than 2 percent of wine sales, growth is expected to continue to exceed that of the general wine market.

Behind the success of mini-bottles: "The big bubble of young consumers is coming to wine in great quantities," says Eileen Fredrikson, partner at Gomberg, Fredrikson & Associates, a wine-industry consulting firm in Woodside, California.

A mere decade ago, most 187s, as minis are sometimes called, were ho-hum wines served on airlines. But in 1999, the distinguished French house of Pommery had the revolutionary idea of pouring its champagne into cobalt-blue mini-bottles and selling them with a straw, hoping to draw a younger audience. Pommery’s P.O.P. (product of Pommery) is slightly sweeter than its Brut to suit the taste of twentysomethings, and it potentially introduces them to joys beyond Coca-Cola, providing a more glamorous option than alcopops.

Although Pommery was accused of trying to destroy the illustrious name of champagne, other producers soon followed suit. Piper-Heidsieck’s Baby Piper, clad in red and gold, arrived within the year. Accepted with open arms—er, mouths—the splits revitalized champagne at a time when business was suffering. They were spotted at fashion shows, nightclubs, trendy bars, high-profile weddings, and chic parties. In 2004, Moët & Chandon introduced its Rosé Impérial split, and Pommery added the Pink P.O.P. rosé. Nicolas Feuillatte’s One Fours, which sport wrist straps for easy carrying and twist-off tops for easy opening, made their U.S. debut in 2006. Gold P.O.P, the first vintage-dated mini champagne, will arrive in the fall.

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