Tapas, small plates—call them whatever you like. Just don't think they're scaled-down versions of regular dishes. Here's what it takes to create a great small plate: 

Flavor: The more intense, the better, since you’re getting a small portion. Says Ravel Centeno-Rodriguez, co-owner of Minibar, in Los Angeles: “You should feel that every time you get a new plate, it’s a new meal.”

Presentation: Small plates need to be visually appealing—but because many forks and fingers will be dipped into them, they also need to be easy to eat and to share, says Kristine Subido, executive chef at Wave at Chicago’s W Hotel. Bite-size is good; lots of cutting is not.

Variety: Having something for everyone is key, since customers often order collaboratively. The 36 items on the menu at AOC, in Los Angeles, reflect the wide spectrum of tastes and culinary personalities—in chef-owner Suzanne Goin’s words, you’ve got some “rustic and gutsy” (beef cheeks with paprika and buttered noodles); “decadent and slutty” (wood roasted, bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with Parmesan), “familiar and comforting” (grilled skirt steak with black olive aioli), and “light and bright” (Moroccan spice-marinated carrots).

Word play: Since how a dish is described on a small-plates menu creates interest and intrigue—and helps sell the product—chefs frequently take poetic license. For example, on the vegetarian menu at Chicago’s Green Zebra, “creamy sunchoke raviolis” will sell briskly; mere “cheese ravioli” won’t, says executive chef and owner Shawn McClain.

The X factor: Small plates should contain an element of surprise. At Ame, in San Francisco, one bar menu favorite is a sashimi, presented simply with olive oil, lemon zest, and sea salt. “When you taste it, the olive oil is far beyond an olive that you’re accustomed to getting,” says Lissa Doumani, who co-owns Ame with her chef husband, Hiro Sone. Plus, she says, the sea salt adds texture and crunch. “It’s like Pop Rocks or something; you really get it.”