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Along the Hotel Chi Minh Trail

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Appliances Caught Between Centuries at Saigon's Continental Hotel
We've been infatuated with Hotel Continental Saigon ever since we read Graham Greene's The Quiet American way back when. Alas, we modern-day journalists can't afford to stay in the place where Fowler and his fellow foreign correspondents partied back in the 1950s.

Despite our modest means, we still managed to catch a glimpse of the hotel when we passed through town. And it met—and exceeded—our expectations.

Even the most basic rooms were enormous, with maybe a bit too much unused space, reminding us that there was once a time when space equaled luxury. The porches on the third floor where the suites are located overlook the Municipal Theatre and the Caravelle Hotel, a hotel with similar, probably better, amenities, but much less charm. Have a drink at Caravelle's rooftop bar overlooking the city. The bartender there is renowned, and there's live music nightly.

In fact, it seems as though the Caravelle is more the place for people to hang out than the Continental's restaurant, which has become a stuffier affair. We suggest staying at the Continental and drinking at the Caravelle. The Caravelle's rooms are just like any modern Hyatt or Hilton, while the Continental's are straight out of the 1960s. Even the avocado-green mini-fridges in the rooms are retro. Positioned next to new, flat-screen TVs, it's obvious the hotel is trying its best to stay modern without losing its throwback appeal.

Old People Love Vietnam's Life Heritage Resort

If you think Life Heritage Resort sounds like an old folks home, well, you wouldn't be entirely wrong. The resort chain has three locations in Vietnam, and we visited the one in Hoi An when we passed through town. With austere courtyards, and spongy, imported grass, the hotel resembles our grandparents' condo in South Florida more than it does a contemporary hotel beside the country's most treasured ancient city.

To boot, Life Heritage Resort in Hoi An has attracted the most renowned geriatric in America and perhaps the world: Mick Jagger. The night receptionist who showed us around when we visited said she spotted the Rolling Stone around the grounds when he visited in August 2007. Disappointingly, she added that he was a cordial and quiet guest.

Of course, Jagger stayed in the hotel's nicest room, the Grand Suite, which costs $289 per night, and comes with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room, a library, and a big balcony overlooking the Thu Bon river.

The hotel just reopened last August after a seven-month renovation and expansion. It added a new wine bar, Heritage Restaurant, that mimics Hoi An's historic 16th-century, fishing-village style. They also renovated all 94 rooms, updating them with deep bathtubs. We're pretty sure Mick Jagger could've found some clever uses for one of those.

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