Ever since Vietnam's communist leaders decided to change course and embark on its so-called "doi moi" (renovation) policy in 1986, the country has grown as a destination for both business and leisure travelers. But what about the hotel scene? Here are snapshots of five spots to rest your head in Vietnam.

The Hilton Hanoi is Not the Hanoi Hilton
Hilton's PR division in Southeast Asia probably despises John McCain's nomination for U.S. president more than they did the release of "One Night in Paris," Paris Hilton's sex tape. Suddenly, "Hanoi Hilton," resurfaced as a euphemism for unspeakable torture and hardship. Well, guess what, Hanoi has a real-life Hilton and it's actually quite lovely.

The stately Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel and the Hoa Lo Prison museum, aka "Hanoi Hilton" buildings are located only a few blocks from each other. We visited the actual hotel as well as the notorious Vietnam War-era prison, which now functions as a Communist propaganda pulpit.

The museum depicts the oppression of Vietnamese prisoners during French occupation through the early part of the 20th century, and the subsequent, supposed benevolence shown toward McCain and his fellow soldiers when they were imprisoned. There are photos of American soldiers playing basketball, decorating Christmas trees, and laughing together over holiday feasts.

In fact, they make it look better than the Hilton, and that is hard to do.

The 269-room, five-star Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel opened in 1999 (notice the Hilton comes before the Hanoi, just to emphasize the distinction), in a beautiful old building in Hanoi's Old Quarter, right across the street from the opera house.

While a Viet Minh brigade met McCain's plane when it was shot down over the city, the Hilton Hanoi meets its guests at the airport in BMW 530is. And while McCain showered with fellow inmates inside walls lined with barbed wire and broken glass, Hilton Hanoi guests are surrounded by marble during their bath times.

When we visited, it seemed like the bustling hotel and museum both manage to do quite nicely for themselves. For guests, they make it hard to remember the unfortunate association with the hotel's name a few hours into your stay.

• Hilton Hanoi
• 1 Le Thanh Tong Street, Hanoi, Vietnam
• www.hiltonhotels.com