Sit down for a Korean meal and before you’ve even opened your mouth to order, the waiter will bring an array of tapaslike plates for the table to share—enough kimchi, broiled fish, pickled radish, and glass noodles to constitute its own meal. Add to that the bold, spicy nature of local cuisine and the fact that, by tradition, friends pour alcohol into each other’s out-held cups (never into their own), and you’ll begin to understand the challenge Seoul poses to single diners.

For years, foreigners seeking more accessible options had few choices outside the American military base in downtown Seoul and imported chains like Pizza Hut. But the country made itself foreigner-friendly in preparation for the 2002 World Cup. In addition to a high-speed rail link to Busan, the country’s second largest city, and plenty of English signage, Seoul has sprouted excellent restaurants—with English menus and impressive wine lists.

The Han River separates Seoul’s older, historic northern half, with its universities, government buildings, old palaces, central train station, and many of the best restaurants and hotels, from the newer, flashier districts to the south, where many European and North American businesses have offices in shiny skyscrapers. The more established restaurants, including several in this story, are located north of the river.


Namsan: The Paris Grill
Grand Hyatt
747-7 Hannam 2-Dong
Yongsan-Ku
02-797-1234 
The Hyatt sits on the haunches of Namsan, the mountain that rises up in the town’s center. Who needs a companion when the Paris Grill’s floor-to-ceiling windows provide the best view in the city: south over a manicured terrace to the Han River and the glittering office towers beyond. Inside, the atmosphere is ritzy, with white tablecloths and waiters in bow ties who were almost too attentive as they shuttled between tables on a slow night. The wine list runs for pages and includes 22 by-the-glass, more than most of Seoul’s best restaurants. The menu includes standards like French onion soup and filet mignon, lots of fish, and a handful of very rich desserts.

Dress: Business casual
Prices: Very expensive
Reservations: Recommended
Close to: Grand Hyatt Hotel, Shilla Hotel


Downtown: Tani
9/F Avenue L, 130
Namdaemun-ro 2-Ga Jung-gu
02-2118-6100

Seoul’s “classy” restaurants tend to overshoot the mark, favoring the gilded and gaudy. Not so at Tani, where 20-foot-high indoor trees complement the natural wood decor—including, behind a glass wall, a forest of wine racks. The top-notch Japanese fusion cuisine and swanky vibe have drawn generous comparisons to Nobu. But here you can light up a Cohiba from the cigar menu. Each course on the set menu (thinly sliced pork pastrami followed by caramelized apple salad, pumpkin soup, mustard shrimp tempura, steak, sashimi, and chocolate mousse was $40 at lunch) comes to the table just as the previous one disappears. Ask for a seat that overlooks the open kitchen and wood-fueled fire.

Dress: Business casual
Prices: Moderate to expensive
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Close to: City Hall, Downtown Seoul, Westin Chosun Hotel, Radisson Plaza Hotel