Table for One: Philadelphia
Table for One: New York
Surviving Siberia
The Big Business of Small Plates
Philadelphia has long been known for its comfort food—hoagies, Tastykakes, water ice, soft pretzels, roast pork Italians, and not least, scrapple, that unholy Pennsylvania Dutch union of cornmeal and unmentionable pig parts—as well as its signature delicacy, the cheesesteak, with its rippling layers of greasy chopped beef trowelled into a roll and slathered in “cheese” the color of a prison jumpsuit.
Happily, over the last decade or so, the City of Brotherly Love has staked its claim as a center for more-exalted fare. Rocky’s hometown is now home to a covey of cutting-edge eateries that specialize in the likes of nuevo Mexican and nouvelle French cuisine. A triumvirate of daring restaurateurs—Steven Starr, George Perrier, and Neil Stein—have buttressed the town’s budding reputation as a playground for foodies.
If you’re in town on business, it would be a shame to miss out on the fine-dining options just because you’re eating on your own. Go beyond the traditional choices with our insider’s guide to some of the heroically hip restaurants that have enlivened Philadelphia’s dining scene. We have skipped such old standbys as Brasserie Perrier, Lacroix, and Morimoto to focus on five relatively new places that seem almost custom-made for the solo dining experience.
Old City: Amada
217-219 Chestnut Street
215-625-2450
At Philadelphia’s premier Spanish tapas joint, the solo diner can choose between the bustling front bar, which is festooned with hanging Serrano hams and rustic wine barrels; the chef’s counter, which faces the open kitchen; and the cozy and private bar in the back. Jose Garces’ subtly inventive dishes include baby artichokes dusted with Parmesan; foie gras and Seville marmalade on French toast; and tuna-and-crab croquettes and Garrotxa goat cheese. Tapas lovers seeking an even cozier atmosphere can head about eight blocks south to Ansill Food & Wine in Queen Village for the justly famous osso buco sandwich and some astounding egg dishes, from shirred egg with truffle and foie gras to scrambled duck egg with smoked trout.
Center City: Striped Bass
1500 Walnut Street
215-732-4444
Don’t let the setting of this popular seafood establishment—an imposing former brokerage house—put you off. Avoid the drama and ostentation of the dining room and proceed directly to the bar, where on most nights you will be pampered by a real live South Philadelphian named Damon, who dispenses good counsel and yarns about the city. The Striped Bass serves up briny dishes like Indian-spiced lobster and impeccably fresh wild striped bass with sorrel pesto and creamy goat cheese polenta. We can also confidently recommend the B.L.T.—bacon and yellowfin tuna on a bed of baby romaine. The cellar holds an enviable store of French wines.
North Philadelphia: Osteria
640 North Broad Street
215-763-0920
The intrepid business traveler should avoid the chef’s bar at this new Italian bistro several blocks north of City Hall. The wall between diner and kitchen is a little too high, the counter a little too shallow, the aisle a little too narrow, and the scenery a little too prosaic—there’s an unobstructed view of a muffler shop. Instead, sit at the roomy back bar, where on slow nights the sommelier will pour you lots of tastes if you show the slightest interest. Chef-owner Marc Vetri and executive chef Jeff Michaud cook lively and daring dishes, particularly crisp-crusted pizza (try one topped with snail) and a reliably delicious seasonal vegetable antipasto (which may include fiddleheads, oven-dried tomatoes, or grilled artichokes). The restaurant has an excellent selection of Belgian beers and Italian wines.
Society Hill: Xochitl
408 South Second Street
215-238-7280
Dionicio Jimenez works hard to please the comensal de solo, providing a warm welcome and a menu that’s regularly updated. The chef has a penchant for dishes with well-defined, contrasting flavors. Depending on his whims, the dishes may include scallop-and-watermelon ceviche, gorditas stuffed with delicate huitlacoche or chile en nogada, a poblano pepper filled with ground beef, toasted almonds, pomegranate seeds, and dried fruit, glazed with a pool of cream made from walnuts grown in his mother’s backyard in Puebla. The best place to watch the hustle and flow is at the bar, which is usually tended by a garrulous Brit named Bob.
Rittenhouse Square: Snackbar
253 South 20th Street
215-545-5655
Though this informal “restaubar” has a young feel, it’s well suited to the independent diner. Perch on a stool at the elbow-shaped bar and nibble on chef Jonathan McDonald’s unusual small plates. McDonald cooks with the imagination of a beat poet; each dish has a slightly off-center personality. The wasabi-encrusted apples with miso caramel sauce make a lively prelude to the grouper with fried egg, baby artichokes, and tarragon oatmeal. Then there’s salmon with strawberry-fennel salad, and the white beer-braised pork belly accompanied with a poached egg and charred-onion broth. (Snackbar’s mussels are pretty straight-up and very nicely done). Expect a warm welcome and swift, smiling service.






