What a Dwell Time It Is
Flight Food Plan
I Fly, Therefore I Eat
The Waiting Game
Dwell time, the execrable phrase that industry pooh-bahs use to define the amount of our travel day that they eat up with delays, security and other diversions, continues to grow.
One large international airport now says the average traveler spends almost four hours hanging around its terminals, concourses, ticket counters, gates and clubs waiting to fly. That's the outer edge of the dwell-time envelope, of course, but you get the idea: If you're flying, you're also waiting, so why not grab a bite to make the delays seem just a little more palatable.
Last week's column covered the best of our dining and drinking options in and around 13 airports in the 10 busiest metropolitan area. Here's another baker's dozen of the nation's most-traffic airports.
San Francisco
No airport has as many food partisans as San Francisco International. Some swear by the fish and chowders at the airport branch of Yankee Pier, located in Terminal 3 near Gate 72. The airport branch of Ebisu, a much-loved local mini-chain of sushi bars, is located in the International Terminal. And Andalé Mexican is as omnipresent at SFO (with locations in Terminals 1 and 3 and the International Terminal) as it is in the Bay Area itself. Looking for sustenance off the airport? You'll find a branch of the legendary In-N-Out burger chain just two miles away in Millbrae. About seven miles away in San Mateo is the Sinbad Grill, a Middle Eastern market and deli that's morphed into full-line restaurant. It still does terrific hummus, nice falafel and good grilled kebabs.
Oakland
If you're using Oakland International, the Bay Area's secondary airport, your best dining and drinking option is Vino Volo, the airport-based chain of wine bars. It opened in December in Terminal 2 near Gate 25. Also new in Terminal 2 is another outpost of the aforementioned Andalé Mexican. And if you want a hoot, take your sense of humor one block from the airport's front gates to Dewey Bargiacchi's Francesco's. The 40-year-old joint is an odd agglomeration of diner, family-style Italian-American restaurant, and brown-liquor meet-and-greet hangout. The food is simple, portions are gigantic, prices are low—and there are black-and-white photos of the old days at Oakland Airport on the wall.
Washington/Reagan National
Travelers who believe the only true road foods are burgers, fries and hot dogs find their holy grail at National Airport at Five Guys. The burgers are hand formed and the meat is never frozen. Its hot dogs are 100 percent kosher and the fries are cooked in peanut oil. The fast-growing, family-owned chain got its start in Northern Virginia, so it's no surprise there's a branch on the airport's North Pier. And Ranch 1 still grills a formidable chicken sandwich at its stand at North Terminal C. If you want to eat before you fly, find the unprepossessing Kebab Palace, about a mile from the airport in Arlington, Virginia. Terrific kebabs and curries at dirt-cheap prices and the place never seems to close.
Washington/Dulles Airport
Five Guys has also set up shop in Concourse A (near Gate A3) and Concourse B (near Gate 71) of Dulles Airport. If you want more refined fare, a branch of Vino Volo, the wine bar, is located on Concourse C near Gate C3.
Baltimore
The Greene Turtle Sports Bar and Grille has more than two dozen locations in the Mid-Atlantic region and has an outlet in Concourse D of Baltimore-Washington International Airport. The chain's turtle wraps are famous, if not particularly healthy. For those interested in another Baltimore specialty, head for crab cakes at G&M Restaurant in Linthicum Heights, about five Interstate miles from the airport gates. Focus on the justly famous crab cakes and ignore the rest of the menu.
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