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I Fly, Therefore I Eat

A whirlwind tour through the dining options inside and nearby 13 airports in 10 of the nation’s most trafficked metro areas.

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Here's a term business travelers have come to hate: dwell time. It's an industry euphemism for all of the hours we spend waiting at an airport because we cleared security too quickly or were trapped by a delayed flight.

But "dwell" at airports we do, and that means we gotta eat. The good news on that front is that airports are going out of their corporate way to improve their dining options. There are more notable places than ever before at the nation's major airports and hub cities—and more good places to eat right near the airports too.

Here's my 2010 list of the "best" dining options at and around the nation's big airport cities.

Atlanta

Sprawling Hartsfield-Jackson Airport is blessed with several outlets of Paschal's, for years a local bastion of traditional Southern cuisine. If you can handle the fusion, One Flew South merges southern flavors, sushi, and other international fare. Located on Concourse E, it's probably the snappiest bar in the airport too. If you want to wander outside the airport bubble, two places in College Park, about four miles away, will do. The Brake Pad does cheap, comfortable pub grub in a stylishly converted old gas station, and it has an outdoor patio. Slightly more upscale in style and menu, The Feed Store used to be, well, a feed store.

Chicago/O'Hare

The Berghoff is a magical name in Chicagoland, and some vestiges of the German-Austrian landmark have reopened on West Adams Street. The branch at Terminal One in O'Hare Airport is probably best for a beer and to say you've been. For food, I prefer a quick bite at Burrito Beach, a local Mexican chain with a kiosk in the food court between Concourses H and K in Terminal 3. The black-bean-and-red-rice burrito appeals to my inner vegetarian. If you want out of the airport and crave a stuffed-crust pizza, the Rosemont branch of Giordano's is about four miles away. Or you could opt for Chicago's traditional deep-dish style at the Park Ridge branch of Lou Malnati's about seven miles away.

Chicago/Midway

If you use Midway, the smaller, in-town airport, grab a frankfurter, bratwurst, or polish sausage at Gold Coast Dogs, a Chicago institution. (There's also a branch at O'Hare.) And how could you not at least hoist one at Harry Caray's, a bar that claims to be a steakhouse. Both are in the so-called Midway Triangle. If you can get out of the airport, the nearest Giordano's is on South Cicero, one of the streets bordering the airport. The nearest Lou Malnati's, on West Ogden, is about five miles out.

Los Angeles

The still-futuristic-looking Theme Building at Los Angeles International has a new restaurant. But Encounter is a little too future-according-to-the-original-Star Trek for me. I always seem to end up at the Wolfgang Puck Express stands inside Terminals 2 and 7. I'm still a sucker for the Chinois chicken salad. Meanwhile, I know business travelers who schedule a special stop at the In-n-Out Burger just a mile from LAX. Like all outposts of this cult chain, the Sepulveda Boulevard branch has no freezers, heat lamps, or microwaves and only sells fresh burgers and fries and shakes made with ice cream. But I'm partial to Mariposas at the Hacienda Hotel, about two miles from the airport. Mariposas is a 24-hour diner, and a dive diner at that. But it offers a killer breakfast, several terrific Mexican dishes, and a nice California club sandwich.

Dallas/Fort Worth

"Irish pub" may not be what leaps to mind when you're thinking food and drink at Dallas/Fort Worth International. But even blasé business travelers rave about Tigin in Terminal D. The All Day Irish breakfast is surprisingly authentic and complete. Bangers and mash also work nicely with a draft pint of Harp, Smithwick's, or Guinness. If Dallas means barbecue to you (it does to me), try the Texas-style 'cue at Cousin's in either Terminal B or D. And blasphemous as it sounds in Texas, I love the pulled pork at Dickey's Barbecue Pit, which has branches in Terminals A, C, and E. Since I once clocked the drive from the car-rental lot to the outer gate of DFW at nine miles, it might not be wise to venture off the airport any further than the lavish new Grand Hyatt DFW, which is connected to Terminal D. It has a snappy bar (M Lounge), a surprisingly good all-day restaurant (Grand Met), and iTaste, which offers 30-minute tasting courses of wine, cheese, or chocolate.

Denver

At Denver International Airport, Lefty's bars and restaurants are in various configurations in all three passenger concourses. If you pass a Lefty's that is selling the portobello mushroom sandwich, grab one. For a hopping good time, hit the New Belgium Hub on Concourse B. It's the airport branch of Colorado's justifiably famous New Belgium Brewing Company. Fat Tire Amber Ale is the signature pint, but there's always something new and interesting on tap. Denver Airport is so isolated that nearby dining options are extremely limited. The best of the bunch is the Blue Bay Asian Café, about seven miles away. Nothing on the pan-Asian menu is superlative, but the dumpling and Thai dishes are quite good. The prices are low and the portions are large.

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